Kotor and Nudo, Montenegro

A beautiful bay, an excellent winery, and lots of talk of pirates! Welcome to Montenegro.

We took tenders to the port in Kotor to begin our excursion to Dabovic Estate Vineyard in the town of Nudo, way on the other side of the mountains. The drive was both gorgeous and treacherous, with narrow roads (more like paved goat paths) and switchbacks needed to climb the steep grade, but our excellent driver and very funny guide got us there in one piece, and certainly ready for wine!

Their winemaking room smelled heavenly. If I were a fruit fly that’s where I’d live.

On the way we passed two islands, the Island Gospa od Skrpjela (Our Lady of the Rocks) and the Island Sveti Djordje (the island of the dead captains), in the bay of Boka Kotorska, situated in the sea across from the town of Perast in the Kotor municipality. The Island Gospa od Skrpjela, is an artificial island, which according to local stories was made by the seaman from Perast and Kotor who brought the stones on their boats. According to local legend fisherman from Perast found an icon of the Holy Mother of God on a sea rock after a shipwreck near the island, so they vowed to build a church. It was built in 1630.

Sveti Djordje, rising from a natural reef, is the smaller of Perast’s two islands. It houses a Benedictine monastery shaded by cypresses and a large cemetery. Our acerbic guide mentioned that the dead sea captains were always rich, which is why they are buried in this beautiful cemetery.

Piracy was rife in Montenegro, and many churches were built high up the mountainside, so the pirates would have a more difficult time accessing their riches. The Adriatic, on both sides, has many pirate stores and as many ways to thwart their attacks.

Our visit to Winery Dabovic began with glasses of Rakija, Montenegro’s moonshine. Our guide said he enjoys one glass a year on Christmas Eve with his father. Potent stuff. This was served with tiny doughnuts which we dipped in honey. The winery is situated at the very entrance of Nudo, a small village in the subregion of Boka Kotorska. It was more like a family home, and the entire family works the vineyard.

Suitable soil and microclimate conditions at the place where the Mediterranean and continental climates meet have made Nudo extremely suitable for agriculture. The Dabović family has continued to nurture the tradition of growing grapes and producing wine, which is more than a century long. Their winemaking room smelled heavenly. If I were a fruit fly that’s where I’d live.

Wines are produced in a traditional way, with a lot of love and enthusiasm, but using modern technology as well. The sister and brother team spoke of bringing the winemaking into the 21^st century. Well, she spoke. He knew very little English but he sure know how to make wine!

Multiple international award-winning red wines are made from species called Ružica, Vranac, Prokopac, while the white wine, which used to be served at the Viennese court, is produced from indigenous species Žilavka and Radovača. There is also a variety of homemade brandies: Lincura (yellow gentian, a species of gentian native to the mountains of central and southern Europe), Srčanik (Potentilla root, very bitter), nettle brandy, juniper, plum, apple, quince and brandy from other fruits. You can also taste other products such as liqueurs, homemade juices and jams. The family was very generous with their wines, we tasted and they kept pouring! We could also taste any of their brandies as well. And the lunch they served was a delight. Homemade salamis, smoky and flavorful, savory pastries wrapped in phyllo dough, freshly baked breads, cheeses from their own animals; sheep, goat and cow’s milk. We brought a bottle of Žilavka (white) and a bottle of Vranac (red) home with us, and are saving them for a special occasion. Like Tuesday.