The Makololo tribe called it ‘Mosi-oa-Tunya’, or the smoke that thunders, where the Zambezi River falls into the gorge and creates mists that can be seen from miles away, now know as Victoria Falls. I can’t imagine the fear David Livingstone must have known being rowed to the edge in a dugout canoe and deposited on what is now known as Livingstone Island. While he didn’t discover the falls, he certainly made them famous.
“Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.” – David Livingstone upon seeing Victoria Falls
The elephant did eventually depart our airstrip in Botswana, and we flew an uneventful flight in a bush plane from Machaba Camp to the airport at Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. In flight Steve Lake pointed out where we could see four countries’ borders come together, Botswana, Zambia, Namibia and Zimbabwe. Steve introduced us to another Micato guide, Shane, and our driver Nyashe. We proceeded to the beautiful Victoria Falls Hotel, which has a view of the bridge over the falls from Zimbabwe to Zambia. Our concierge Thandie met us and assisted with check in and accommodations. The hotel was the first in Victoria Falls and is very British Colonial. Tasteful furnishings, lovely murals depicting that long ago era, travel posters in the hallways mostly showing how the sun never set on the British Empire. And you can see the bridge from Zimbabwe to Zambia from the hotel grounds.
That evening we dined on a riverboat on the Zambezi and watched a glorious sunset. Thankfully the boat got nowhere close to the falls!
The next day another adventure awaited. We flew in an angel flight over Victoria Falls. Jan stayed back to chat with Steve Lake so Mark, Steve, Shane and I took my second helicopter ride in less than 2 weeks to view the falls from above. They weighed us beforehand (thank you Jesus it was in Kilos vs. Lbs. so I couldn’t tell how much it said) to decide who would sit in the front. When they told us we all pointed to Shane. “Three hippos and an impala” I told the pilot.
The falls from above is incredible. Rainbows everywhere you look. The volume of water is astounding. Since it was winter and they’d had a productive rainy season the falls were in full force. We’d seen video of them in the dry season and while still impressive not nearly as magnificent as what we saw.
Shane didn’t realize he was nervous until we were in the air. He certainly did okay considering the front seat has a plexiglass floor and he could see through to the ground. Disconcerting for sure. He couldn’t get out of the helicopter fast enough at the end.
We then toured the Victoria Falls Rainforest, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, where we could see the falls up close. On the way we had to slow down to let a troop of baboons cross the road, a few with babies on their backs. And we got to see The Big Tree, a renowned baobab. It is 1200 years old and the largest baobab in Africa. Did you know the fruit of the baobab is where cream of tartar comes from? The baboons, elephants and even humans enjoy the fruit, and the flowers are pollinated by fruit bats and even bush babies!
At the rainforest walk there is a statue of the extraordinary David Livingstone, the first white man to see the falls. It’s on the path to see the eastern cataract, where the flow of water is breathtaking.
All the views were breathtaking. And one wind shift and you’re drenched. The flowers and birds along the path were beautiful as well.
From there we lunched at the Lookout Café, with open air seating over the gorge and a view of the ziplines and bungee jumpers. I’d do a zipline but those bungee jumpers made my back hurt just watching them.
We’d been gifted massages by the Victoria Falls Hotel, scheduled for the afternoon. They were either a neck or foot massage. My Steve didn’t want his so I used it, and combined they created a full body massage which I hadn’t expected! Heavenly.
Before dinner we had a very civilized cocktail in the hotel’s bar called Stanley’s Room and played a very uncivilized card game of Shithead there as well. Then we dined in the elegant Livingstone Room and our wine aficionado tour guide Steve picked another winner for our drinking pleasure. Not him though. Company policy. Very sad.

Next up – Cape Town!
love the angel video!!!! and what a beautiful “b&b”