Day One – Basel Switzerland

A few years ago we had discussed a holiday to celebrate my cousin’s 50 wedding anniversary and our 25th. I was Maid of Honor at Mike and Anita’s wedding; Anita was Matron of Honor at ours. We thought it would be just the two couples, but the guest list grew! Our friend Liz is celebrating a milestone birthday in December so she and her husband Charles joined up; Mike’s brother Wayne was his Best Man so he and his wife Janet decided to join, and my cousin Claudia retired in August so she and her husband John joined our celebration. The Rhine River Getaway was supposed to cruise from Basel to Amsterdam, but if you’ve watched any news this fall you will have heard that the Rhine, especially between Kehl and Kinderdijk is dry. Viking longboats do not draw a lot of water; they need 3 feet of water to sail. In Cologne the depth of the Rhine was 12 inches while we were there. We contemplated cancellation until spring but finally decided to go for it knowing we’d have new cities to explore and a day on a bus, but we’d sleep on a ship every night.

We arrived the day before the ship’s departure after an overnight flight. The airport has two exits, one to France and one to Switzerland. Basel, Switzerland, is a vibrant city located on the Rhine River near the borders of France and Germany, and the airport is a short ride from the city center. We stayed at Hotel D in Basel, centrally located, accessible to the tram lines and a short walk from the river, and dined at Ufer7, a wonderful, eclectic restaurant on the Rhine. From pork belly and char fish appetizers to duck legs and short rib mains and everything in between there was something for everyone. Staff was lovely and put up with all the Dad jokes, made cocktails not on the menu and gave us a great introduction to Basel.  

The next morning six of were schedule on a cheese and chocolate tour, which the provider cancelled via an email which I did not see. A friend of Claudia’s recommended the Natural History Museum, which turned out to be a fabulous alternative, with fewer calories. If ever in Basel I highly recommend.

Basel is known for its world-class art museums, historic Old Town, annual Art Basel fair, it’s medieval architecture, riverside promenades, lively markets, and distinctive Swiss-German atmosphere. And it’s thriving pharmaceutical industry. Heard of Moderna? Thank you to my Covid vaccine maker! Also, Bayer, Novartis, Roche and Sandoz.

Our walking tour guide told us that proximity to three countries within a 20-minute drive gave the locals a lot of opportunities. Work in Switzerland where the salaries are higher, live in France where the rents are cheaper, and grocery shop in Germany where the deals are better.

There are two chambers of parliament in Switzerland: The National Council and the Council of States. Basel is a Canton (state), and there are 26 Cantons in Switzerland, so there is a Parliament office within the Town Hall in Basel. Our guide showed us the impressive red building with a beautiful clock and gold tower, and each opening adorned with a jester’s cap. It’s a tip of the hat (pun intended) to  Basel Fasnacht which is Switzerland’s largest carnival and is recognized on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List. Known by locals as die drey scheenschte dääg (“the three most beautiful days”), it is a precisely timed 72-hour celebration that transforms the city into a theater of satire, music, and lantern-light. It starts at 4AM. Go figure. Unlike most European carnivals, Basel’s takes place a week later than usual—starting on the Monday after Ash Wednesday—due to its historic Protestant roots.

Our guide also took us to the Basel Cathedral, with its red sandstone walls, colorful roof tiles and twin towers; no other building adorns the cityscape of Basel like the Cathedral. 

It’s a former episcopal church, built between the years 1019 and 1500 in the Romantic and Gothic styles. The crypt, the chancel, the tomb of Erasmus of Rotterdam, the Gallus gate and the two cloisters are witness to a fascinating tale of construction over a period of several centuries. The piazza in which the Cathedral stands is today a popular meeting place and is often used for concerts and events. The Pfalz – the terrace offering wonderful views over the Rhine – is one of the most popular viewpoints in the city.

On the facade there is a statue of St. George slaying the dragon. Our guide said that the dragon looked more like a chihuahua.

 

Up next – Day 2 in the Black Forest!

Deborah