Where to begin? We departed Boston on an Emirates flight through Dubai, which was an experience in itself. Our first time, and I’d happily do it again. Are all U.A.E. men and women so beautiful? Their service was extraordinary and their food delicious, and any airline that serves Moet & Chandon and keeps it coming is alright by me.

Our arrival in Johannesburg after two long flights was so smooth. We were met by an airport representative who delivered us into the highly capable hands of Steve Lake, our Micato guide who’d be spending the next two weeks with Steve, Mark and Jan Russell and me. Let me just start by saying Steve Lake has encyclopedic knowledge of South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe, (and probably several other countries like Namibia and Zambia) and we were lucky to have had him assigned to our trip. Smart, funny and oh so caring of his guests, it was obvious we were in good hands. Micato has dedicated vehicles, drivers, and concierges as well as guides, so there was always someone looking after us.

Our hotel for the next two night was the Saxon, about 30 minutes from the airport. This hotel was originally the private home of Douw Steyn and his family, built in the 1980’s. The Saxon became a haven for statesmen, celebrities, and guests, but most famously known as the retreat where Nelson Mandela worked on his autobiography, “Long Walk to Freedom”. There are photos and artwork featuring Steyn and his guests and many of Mandela.

We were introduced to our Micato concierge, Shamala, who made our dinner reservations, brought us treats and South African champagne, and made sure we had everything we needed for our safari. This included Micato fleece jackets for which we were grateful, as the weather was much colder than we anticipated. As Steve Lake told us, “Take your seasons and turn them on their head. It’s winter here.” Shamala was trying to get an idea of sizing for our jackets, texting Steve as we drove from the airport. Epic fail. They gave me a small/medium. Flattering, but no. Shamala quickly replaced our jackets and provided knit hats, gloves, sun hats and even a duffle bag to put all our extra stuff in. We were told our Micato roller bags would need to be no heavier than 44 lbs. HA! Between the extra clothing, all the lovely gifts we were given and the wine we hadn’t known we’d take home I’m guessing we far exceeded our weight limit.

We were shown to our villa, a separate building (one of several) housing 4 lovely rooms via an elevated walkway and we settled in. We had lunch with Steve Lake, had our questions answered about logistics and I began my love affair with South African Chenin Blanc.

Our dinner reservation was at Qunu, the Saxon’s formal restaurant named for Nelson Mandela’s birthplace and home. Foie gras? Yes please. A master class in Steak Diane? Absolutely. A wonderful conversation with a very knowledgeable sommelier (who looked to be about 16 years old) about Pinotage? Yup, that too.

 

Mark and Jan had a spa day planned for the next day, so Steve and I slept in, ordered room service tea and cappuccino from our butler –  yes, I said butler, and explored the hotel. They are growing the biggest koi I have ever seen. Probably the only way they escape the clutches of the African birds. Speaking of birds, we heard strange squawking outside of our suite and I saw my first Go Away birds. Basically, they look like gray cockatiels. Very cool. Also, the ibises are big and noisy. Steve Lake said they are very annoying when one is trying to sleep in. Shamala said she throws rocks at them.

Steve and I had lunch with Shamala and Steve Lake while Mark and Jan did their spa thing. It was lovely to get to know them better and let Steve Lake understand the irreverent, sarcastic, hot messes he’d be dealing with for the next 2 weeks. We saw our sommelier at lunch, and he was already thinking about what he wanted to serve us at dinner that night. Life doesn’t get any better.

“Tread softly, breathe peacefully, laugh hysterically.”  – Nelson Mandela

Deborah

Next up – Botswana and the Okavango Delta