…or how to harangue a chicken.
When having catered a couple of your best friends weddings with the same main dish and then get the chance to host one couple on their 30th wedding anniversary what do you make? That same dish. Also known as Julia Child’s Chicken Melon, or the uber fancy Poulet de Charente à la Melonaise from her book Julia Child & Company.
I love this dish and haven’t made it in, well, years. It’s seems like it’s not for the faint of heart, but I actually find it quite straightforward. It requires removing the skin of a whole roasting chicken in one piece, deboning the bird and using the meat and other ingredients to make a paté, stuffing it back in the skin and then roasting. The beauty is that it can be served hot (with béarnaise) or cold (with a garlic aioli), and it’s delicious both ways. Julia served it for a holiday lunch, but I find it is a lovely summer dish served cold. And it’s even more lovely with Champagne! But what isn’t…
Julia Child’s Chicken Melon
A 6-7 lb. roasting chicken
1 whole egg
1 egg white
1 ½ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. pepper
3 T. minced shallots
A big pinch of nutmeg
3/4 tsp. dried tarragon
4 T. Cognac (rum or bourbon work in a pinch)
1 cup heavy cream
2/3 c. boiled ham or smoked turkey cut into ¼ inch dice
5 T. shelled pistachios
3 T. melted butter
A 20 inch square piece of cheesecloth
Butcher’s twine
Note – Julia’s original recipe has a lot more detail, but if you’re a decent cook you’ll be able to follow along with my instructions.
Step 1 is to remove the skin from the chicken in one piece. Start at either end and slide your hand(s) beneath the skin next to the flesh and separate it, loosening t from all parts being careful not to tear. If you do create a small tear don’t fret, it can be mended. Cut off the wings at the joint. Start pulling the skin off as though you were removing a sweater from over the head. Okay, the chicken no longer has a head but you get the idea. It helps to remove the skin from the legs using a dish towel as it will give you a better grip. Put the skin aside for use later.
Debone the chicken, getting off as much meat as possible. Cube 1 breast into ¼ inch dice. Set aside.
Put remaining chicken meat into a food processor and puree. Add the egg, egg white, salt, pepper 2 T of the scallions, nutmeg, ½ tsp tarragon, 3 T Cognac, and heavy cream. Puree for a minute or so until smooth. Place in a bow and add the diced chicken breast, ham (or smoked turkey), pistachio nuts 1 T of the shallots, 1 T. of the Cognac, ¼ tsp. of tarragon, and an additional ½ tsp. salt and ¼ tsp. pepper. Mix well.
Soak the cheesecloth in the melted butter, and when cool enough to handle spread out on a cutting board or clean counter. Place the chicken skin on the cheesecloth, with the largest opening on top, making sure the bottom has no openings, like the bottom of a pouch. Fill the pouch with the chicken mixture, using the leg skin to seal any tears in the skin from the inside, and fold over the top skin to close.
Bring the opposite corners of the cheesecloth together and tie in a knot, repeat with the other corners. Cut off any spare cheesecloth close to the knot. Use the butcher’s twine to tie the parcel into the shape of a melon. At this point the chicken can be frozen, but thaw before roasting.
To roast – Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a pie dish and place the chicken top side down. Roast for 25 – 30 minutes until top is brown, then flip over so the bottom side is down. Baste occasionally with pan juices, total cooking time is 1 ½ to 2 hours, or until the internal temperature is 170 degrees.
Let cool slightly, carefully remove cheesecloth and cut into wedges if serving warm. To serve cold let cool, remove cheesecloth and wrap in plastic until chilled. Cut in wedges before serving.
An easy Garlic Aioli – use prepared mayonnaise and add roasted garlic, tarragon, a bit of Dijon mustard, and salt and pepper to taste. Enjoy!
Printable Recipe here – Julia Child’s Chicken Melon
Yum! I remember this dish well. You made it years ago (late 70s? Or maybe early 80s?) when you came out on Rick’s boat. I believe we partook of some champagne at the time too. I have thought of it many times since then. So delicious! You are such a wonderful cook, and on top of that, you are an artist so the presentation of the meal is always gorgeous too! Happy memories! ❤️
Well that was a blast from the past!!! ❤️
D. xx
Looks amazing!
I have the same exact tablecloth on my table right now! From Williams Sonoma!
❤️!
Wonderful to celebrate long-lasting relationships like this, Deborah. And you as a friend of such long standing are part and parcel of their happiness. The chicken dish is indeed impressive, and you celebrate the great Julia Child as well, in making it again. Congratulations to all!