Somehow, right now, my bucket list seems even more important. Having to go a significant amount of time without traveling makes me hyperventilate, so I’m keeping the paper bag close by as our upcoming trips are cancelled either by me or by the hotel/airline/cruise line. I know this hiatus won’t last forever, but right now it certainly feels like it will. So it was with great happiness I was able to tic one of the items off of the bucket list   – spending time with the grey whales and their calves in Magdalena Bay, Mexico. 

We flew into Loreto, rented the ugliest rental car I’ve ever driven, and made our way across the mountains to the sleepy town of Puerto San Carlos.

Magdalena Bay is about 6 hours drive north of Cabo San Lucas on the Baja California, Mexico peninsula. The closest airport is Loreto, Mexico, about 2 ½ hours northeast of Magdalena Bay, so we flew into Loreto, rented the ugliest rental car I’ve ever driven, and made our way across the mountains to the sleepy town of Puerto San Carlos. What little we saw of Loreto makes me want to see more, so I’m hoping for a longer visit in the future. 

We’d contracted with Magdalena Bay Whales for 2 days of tours and a B&B. The accommodations were basic but clean, and the food was decent, but they made the worst margaritas I’ve ever tasted. We stuck to beer and wine, and the occasional tequila shot (to sip, not shoot). The ice was from purified water, but we used bottled water for all else including brushing our teeth. Cabo San Lucas’s water supply is purified, so this was very different from what we were used to. 

We met a lovely couple from England, Claire and Sioux, who were with us in the boat on the first day. They were hitting all the great stuff one can do in Baja California Sur; swimming with whale sharks in La Paz, snorkeling with sea lions, visiting San Jose del Cabo and Cabo san Lucas, Magdalena Bay and then off to Loreto. They are delightful and I hope we’re able to stay in touch. 

Claire (taking a picture of me taking a picture of her) and Sioux

The boats are small-ish. The whales are bigger! Whale watching from most locations is catch as catch can. Whales do not always cooperate. But Magdalena Bay Whales guarantees whales or you don’t pay. As it turns out the same whales return to this bay every year so odds were really, really good we’d see some. They didn’t disappoint. 

It was overcast and cool, but not bad for being in a boat most of the day. The light, the mountains and scenery were stunning. And the whales are a beautiful pale green color under the surface of the water. I’ll let my pictures and videos tell the rest of the story.

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We spent our usual week at Grand Solmar in Cabo san Lucas, but had to cut the rest of the vacation short as the border closings and flight cancellations loomed. So we missed Cabo Pulmo this year. Hopefully we’ll get there next year.

Hopefully. Wait while I reach for the paper bag. 

Deborah