Cabo Pulmo is crowded. Not sure if it’s just post pandemic wanderlust after all those folks bought RV’s and are looking for new places to go, or because of Mexico’s relaxed Covid restrictions (No test? No problem!), but we saw more folks at Arbolitos, the snorkeling beach, than I’ve ever seen before – both day-trippers and campers. The 6-mile dirt road isn’t deterring anyone. God forbid they actually pave it (which is being threatened). More buildings have gone up, lots are for sale and one of the dive operators says he has more business than he can handle. He used to be one of two operators, now there are at least seven. And three more restaurants have opened up. Everybody is busy. Steve was remarking at how 18 years ago when we first started coming here there were so many little kids. Yup, now they’re all running their own businesses. And after a bad couple of pandemic years I’m happy they’ll make up some lost income.

That being said, it still has the same laidback vibe. Steve and I were the only ones on the main beach in town at 11AM. The wind was light so I’m sure Arbolitos was packed with snorkelers, but since we were just going for a swim we had the Cabo Pulmo beach to ourselves.

The wonder of this place is nature at its finest; birds, fish, flowers, snorkeling, diving, hiking, good food, margaritas, beautiful sunrises over the Sea of Cortez and sunsets over the mountains. When the wind is out of the north the beach at Los Frailes is calm. When it’s out of the south Arbolitos is the place to be. If you’re a diver it doesn’t matter, but us snorkelers prefer sunshine and calm seas; less silt and clearer water. And this house! We love this house, the Jewel of Cabo Pulmo.

And we’ve made good friends here. We had a dinner party for the owners of the house and their now retired caretakers. The owners weren’t supposed to be here, but they are constructing a new unit for rent above the garage and had to meet with a new contractor, so while we had already rented their house they are staying at the charming casita in the back, a separate rental. So soon they’ll have 3 units for rent, with the ability to sleep 8 (or 10 if you really like each other). I asked for a price to rent the whole shebang. Anybody in?

Deborah